How to Measure Cabinet Doors

The $800 Lesson That Changed How I Measure

The first kitchen where I measured every door wrong cost me $800 and a weekend I'll never get back. I was three years into painting cabinets, thought I knew what I was doing, and ordered 32 doors that were all a quarter-inch off. Every single one.

My dad. Second-generation painter, the guy who taught me everything. Just shook his head. "Measure twice, cut once," he said. "You measured once and guessed once."

He was right. I'd been sloppy. And I learned that when timelines are tight and customers are counting on you, there's no room for sloppy.

I stood in that kitchen looking at 32 doors that were so close to fitting. A quarter inch. That's it. But a quarter inch might as well be a mile when you're trying to hang a cabinet door. Some doors rubbed. Some doors had gaps you could see daylight through. Some doors wouldn't close properly no matter how I adjusted the hinges.

The homeowner was understanding. She could tell I was devastated. That almost made it worse. I'd let her down, she knew it, and she was being nice about it. I called my supplier, ate the cost of new doors, and spent a weekend redoing work that should have taken a day.

That was twelve years ago. I've measured thousands of doors since then. And I've developed a process that catches mistakes before they become expensive mistakes. Here's everything I've learned.

Why Measurement Matters More Than You Think

Before we get into the process, let me explain why cabinet door measurement is so unforgiving.

Cabinet doors operate in a system. The door, the hinge, the cabinet box, the face frame, the adjacent doors. All of these parts need to work together. When measurements are off, the whole system breaks down.

Too small: The door doesn't cover the opening properly. You see the face frame around the edges. The reveal is uneven. It looks wrong.

Too large: The door doesn't fit at all. It hits the adjacent door. It won't close. It rubs against the cabinet box.

Just a little off: This is the worst. The door fits well enough to install, but something's not right. The gaps aren't even. One side has a bigger reveal than the other. It closes, but it doesn't sit quite flush.

A quarter-inch error on one door might be manageable. A quarter-inch error across 30 doors creates 30 problems. Some visible, some functional, all embarrassing.

The tolerances in cabinet work are tight. 1/16" matters. 1/8" really matters. When you're ordering doors from a supplier, there's no room to trim and adjust. What you order is what you get.

Step 1: Confirm Your Cabinets Are Square

Start with the opening, not the old door. This is where most people go wrong. They measure the existing door and assume it's correct. It probably isn't.

Existing doors might have been trimmed. They might have warped. They might have been the wrong size from the beginning. The cabinet opening is the truth. Start there.

Grab your tape measure. Or a laser if you've got one. And check the width at the top, middle, and bottom. Do the same for height: left side, center, right side.

Here's what you're looking for:

Width variations: Measure the opening width at the very top, at the middle, and at the very bottom. Write down all three numbers. They should match within 1/16".

Height variations: Measure the opening height on the left side, at the center, and on the right side. Write down all three numbers. Same tolerance: 1/16".

If any measurements differ by more than 1/16", write it down. Note which opening it is and what the variance looks like. When you order, we can adjust reveals so your doors sit perfectly even if your cabinets aren't.

Why cabinets go out of square:

• Houses settle over time
• Humidity causes wood expansion and contraction
• Original installation wasn't perfect
• Flooring changes altered cabinet positioning
• Walls shifted or settled

This step catches problems before they become expensive problems. I've saved contractors thousands of dollars just by flagging a variance they didn't notice.

Not sure how to document variances? Our cabinet door measurement service walks you through every step with downloadable templates.

Step 2: Understand Overlay Types

Overlay determines how much the door covers the cabinet face frame. This is critical for ordering the right size door.

Full Overlay: The door covers most of the face frame. You see minimal frame between adjacent doors, typically 1/4" gap. This is the modern, clean look that most people want. Full overlay doors are typically 1" to 1-1/4" larger than the opening on each side.

Partial Overlay (Standard Overlay): The door covers part of the face frame. You see 1-2" of frame between adjacent doors. This is common in older kitchens and some traditional styles. Partial overlay doors are typically 1/2" to 3/4" larger than the opening on each side.

Inset: The door sits inside the face frame, flush with the front of the cabinet. This is the most precise option and requires exact measurements with tight tolerances. The door is slightly smaller than the opening to allow clearance for movement.

Overlay Type	Frame Visible	Door Size vs Opening	Common Application
Full overlay	Minimal (1/4" gap)	Opening + 2" to 2.5"	Modern kitchens
Partial overlay	1-2" showing	Opening + 1" to 1.5"	Traditional styles
Inset	Full frame visible	Opening minus 1/8"	High-end custom

How to determine your overlay type:

Look at your existing doors. How much face frame do you see between adjacent doors?

• Less than 1/2" gap: Probably full overlay
• 1-2" frame visible: Partial overlay
• Door sits inside frame: Inset

If you're replacing only the doors, measure your existing door and match that dimension exactly. This ensures the new doors fit the same way as the old ones.

If you're changing overlay types (common when updating a kitchen), you'll need to calculate new door sizes based on your opening measurements.

Step 3: Get Your Overlay Right

Most shaker and chamfer doors land at a 1/2" overlay. Meaning the door overlaps the cabinet frame by half an inch on all sides. But not always.

Here's what to check:

For full overlay: The door should extend 1" to 1-1/4" beyond the opening on all sides. For a 12" wide opening, the door would be 14" to 14.5" wide.

For partial overlay: The door should extend 1/2" to 3/4" beyond the opening on all sides. For a 12" wide opening, the door would be 13" to 13.5" wide.

For inset: The door should be 1/8" to 3/16" smaller than the opening on all sides. For a 12" wide opening, the door would be 11.75" to 11.875" wide.

Double-check hinge cup placement. That's where most people mess up. The hinge cups need to align with the face frame for proper door positioning.

For inset cabinetry, provide your exact reveals. If the situation is complicated, send photos. I've looked at hundreds of these and can usually spot issues in a picture that would take you an hour to figure out.

Step 4: Share Your Hinge Details

Tell us which hinge you're planning to use. Blum, Salice, Grass, whatever system you prefer. We'll confirm boring patterns and spacing so your doors arrive ready to hang.

The wrong hinge boring means you're re-drilling on the jobsite or sending doors back. Neither option is fun. I've been on both ends of that mistake, and now I ask every customer upfront.

Common hinge systems:

Blum: The industry standard for concealed hinges. Various opening angles from 95° to 170°. Boring pattern is typically 32mm from door edge to cup center.

Salice: Known for smooth action and durability. Similar boring pattern to Blum but verify specifications.

Grass: Popular in commercial applications. Various mounting plate options.

Face frame hinges: For cabinets without a separate face frame. Different boring requirements than frameless applications.

What we need to know:

• Hinge brand and model (if known)
• Opening angle requirement
• Soft-close preference
• Existing boring if you're matching current hinges

If you're not sure what hinge system you're using, send photos of your existing hinges. We can usually identify them and match the boring pattern.

"Dumpster Fire Doors caught a spacing issue before we hung a single door. That save kept us on schedule." . Rivers & Co. Builders

Step 5: Create Your Measurement Document

Organization is everything when measuring a kitchen. A disorganized measurement sheet leads to confusion, mistakes, and doors that don't fit.

Here's the system I use:

Draw a simple floor plan: You don't need architectural skills. Just sketch the kitchen layout showing cabinet positions. Label each opening: U1, U2, U3 for uppers. L1, L2, L3 for lowers. D1, D2, D3 for drawers.

Record each measurement: For every opening, write down:

• Opening width (top, middle, bottom)
• Opening height (left, center, right)
• Door size calculation based on overlay
• Any notes about variance or special conditions

Note hinge side: Mark L or R for left or right hinge side on every door. Stand facing the cabinet to determine. If the hinges are on the left when you face the cabinet, mark it L.

Include drawer fronts: People forget drawer fronts all the time. They're part of the kitchen too. Measure and document them the same way you document doors.

Photo documentation: Take photos of your sketch next to the actual cabinets. If there's ever a question about which measurement goes where, the photo settles it.

The Checklist That Saves Projects

Use our measurement checklist inside the order portal to keep everyone aligned. Field leads, designers, clients. Upload it with your quote request so everyone can sign off before production starts.

The checklist covers:

• Opening dimensions (W x H for each door)
• Overlay type and measurements
• Hinge system and boring specs
• Any variances or notes
• Drawer front dimensions
• Special requirements

I created this checklist after years of back-and-forth emails and phone calls trying to clarify details. Now everything's in one place, and projects move faster.

Download our measurement template: Available in the order portal. Print it, fill it out on site, photograph it, upload it. Simple.

Tools That Make Measuring Easier

You don't need expensive tools to measure accurately, but the right tools help.

Tape measure: The classic. Get one with easy-to-read markings and a reliable lock. Measure to 1/16" minimum.

Laser measure: Faster than a tape for opening dimensions. Great for heights where tape measure handling gets awkward. Accuracy typically 1/16" or better.

Combination square: Helpful for checking if corners are actually square. Place it in the corner of an opening and see if it sits flush.

Level: Check if cabinets are level and plumb. Out-of-level cabinets affect door operation and appearance.

Notepad or tablet: Something to record measurements immediately. Don't trust your memory. Write it down.

Camera: Document everything. Photos of openings, existing doors, hinges, face frames. Photos answer questions later.

Common Measurement Scenarios

Replacing Doors Only

When you're keeping the cabinet boxes and just replacing doors:

1. Measure opening dimensions (width and height at multiple points)
2. Measure existing door to confirm overlay type
3. Note hinge cup positions on existing doors
4. Order new doors to match existing dimensions unless you're changing overlay

New Cabinet Install

When doors are going on newly installed cabinets:

1. Wait until cabinets are fully installed and secured
2. Check that cabinets are level and plumb before measuring
3. Measure each opening individually (don't assume they're all the same)
4. Confirm face frame dimensions match cabinet specs

Mixed Cabinet Styles

When a kitchen has different cabinet types (frameless uppers, face frame lowers, etc.):

1. Identify which cabinets are which type
2. Use appropriate overlay calculation for each type
3. Note the difference on your measurement document
4. Consider how doors will visually align despite different overlay types

Out-Of-Square Openings

When cabinets aren't perfectly square:

1. Measure all three points (top/middle/bottom for width, left/center/right for height)
2. Use the smaller dimension for door size
3. Note the variance and which direction it goes
4. Discuss options with us (door can be slightly oversized and trimmed, or reveal can be adjusted)

Mistakes I've Made (So You Don't Have To)

Before you finalize your order, read about the most common cabinet door measurement mistakes. I've documented every error I've made and seen over the years. Wrong overlay assumptions, forgotten drawer fronts, hinge cup placement disasters.

Here are a few highlights:

Measuring the old door instead of the opening: Old doors may have been trimmed, warped, or wrong to begin with. The opening is the truth.

Forgetting to account for overlay: Ordering a door the exact size of the opening. That door will be too small.

Inconsistent measuring reference points: Measuring some openings at the face frame, others at the box. Pick one and stick with it.

Assuming openings are square: They're often not, especially in older homes.

Transposing width and height: Writing 24 x 30 when you meant 30 x 24.

Forgetting drawer fronts: Measuring all the doors carefully and completely forgetting drawers exist.

Rounding measurements: 15-3/8" is not the same as 15-1/2". Record exactly what you measure.

Learning from your own mistakes is expensive. Learning from mine is free.

Our Measurement Review Process

Every order we receive goes through measurement review before production starts.

Step 1: Check for common errors: We flag measurements that look suspicious. Doors that would be unusually narrow, unusually tall, or outside typical ranges.

Step 2: Verify consistency: We check that similar openings have similar dimensions. If you have four upper cabinets that should be identical and three measure 14" x 30" while one measures 18" x 24", something's probably wrong.

Step 3: Call to verify: Last week we called a customer about a door that measured 8" wide. That's unusually narrow for a cabinet door. Turns out he'd missed a digit. Should have been 18". One phone call saved a remake and two weeks of delay.

Step 4: Confirm overlay type: We verify full vs partial overlay before cutting anything. Mixed overlay in an order is possible but usually indicates confusion about what the customer actually has.

This review catches mistakes before they become expensive problems. We'd rather spend five minutes on the phone than five days making the wrong doors.

Ready to Order?

If you've got your measurements dialed in, head to the order portal to submit your list. The form walks you through everything we need.

If you're not sure about something, call me at 941-417-0202. I'd rather spend five minutes on the phone than have you wait two weeks for doors that don't fit.

I've measured thousands of doors since that $800 lesson. And my dad's voice is still in my head every time I pick up a tape measure: "Measure twice, cut once." After all these years, it's the best advice I've ever gotten.

The process matters. The details matter. And getting it right the first time saves everyone time, money, and frustration.